FAQs

GENERAL EMBROIDERY FAQ

  • Has the job of enabling sharp-contoured embroidery free from deformation due to pulling
  • Gives the embroidery base the necessary dimensional stability in conjunction with the underlay stitching
  • May be removed after the embroidery process by tearing, cutting away or dissolving
  • For materials with a nap, the backing can be supported by a soluble film on the top of the embroidered item. The stitches are prevented from sinking into the nap by a water- or heat-soluble backing or a suitable film
  • The following table is given as a guide for the application of different types of backing.
Material Backing
Fine knitwear, very fine woven fabrics Cut away backing, in order to avoid material damages while tearing away the backing
Woven fabric, stable knitwear Tear away backing
Transparent materials, embroideries which are visible as well from the reverse side Water- or heat soluble backing for the purpose of complete removal
Terry cloth, velvet, velours Tear or cut away backing + water-soluble film on the top
 
  • The DB x K5 needle system has established itself worldwide in machine embroidery. Virtually all machines use this system with the exception of the Fortron®
  • The eye of the needle in the DB x K5 system is 1—2 needle sizes larger than usual. A size 70 needle therefore has the eye of a size 80 or 90 needle. The benefits are:
    • a smaller diameter needle may be selected; it protects the material
    • better protection for the embroidery thread as there is more room in the eye
    • needle is easier to thread
      • The needle size indicates the diameter of the part of the needle that penetrates the material, given in mm/100. A size 70 needle therefore has a diameter of 0,7 mm
        • needle sizes of between 55 and about 120 may be used on conventional embroidery machines.
          • The needle point is selected according to the embroidery application. The small ball point may be used as a starting point
          • Real cutting points (SD or DH needle points) are avoided during machine embroidery to prevent perforation of the material
          • The following table gives a guide for selecting points and sizes. Exceptions are possible
          Material Needle size Needle point Needle brand
          Knitwear: Nm Size Groz-Beckert Organ Schmetz
          Knitwear
          Knitwear & jersey 65 — 80 9 — 12 medium or small ball point FFG / RG J / Q SES
          Finely knitted fabric 60 — 75 8 — 11 medium or small ball point FFG / RG J / Q SES
          Woven fabric
          Fabrics for shirts/blouses 55 — 70 7 — 10 sharp or small ball point R / RG R / Q R
          Denim 70 — 110 10 — 18 sharp or small ball point R / RG R / Q R
          Terry cloth 65 — 90 9 — 14 sharp or small ball point R / RG R / Q R
          Mircro-fibre 60 — 90 8 — 14 sharp or small ball point R / RG R / Q R
          Silk 60 — 80 8 — 12 sharp or small ball point R / RG R / Q R
          Leather goods
          Leather 70 — 110 10 — 18 sharp ball point R R R
          Synthetic leather 65 — 90 9 — 14 sharp ball point R R R
          Coated materials 65 — 100 9 — 16 sharp or small ball point R / RG R / Q R
Problem Reason Suggested solution
Thread breaks Needle thread tension too high Reset needle thread tension, 125 cN is considered as the highest standard value for general embroidery work
Wrong or incompletely threaded Check thread path and correct if necessary
Thread guiding elements have sharp edges or show burrs Polish thread paths
Hook shows burr (caused for example by hitting needle) Polish hook
Stitch density too high/too many stitch layers on top of each other Change stitching program and digitize less densely
Stitching speed too fast for large stitches For especially long stitches reduce machine speed
Insufficient thread quality Use branded thread featuring a high tensile strength such as ISACORD
Thread bulging in front of the needle Needle size too small, eyelet too small Use thicker needle, use DBxK5 system needle with a larger eye in order to keep the needle size as small as possible
Unfavourable stitching direction (for example satin stitch backwards) Reverse stitching direction with underlay stitches if necessary
Poor thread quality Use branded thread featuring high tensile strength such as ISACORD
Embroidery base material weaved or knitted very densely If possible digitize longer stitches or use a thicker needle
Skip stitches Needle defective (bent) Replace needle
Incorrect needle size Select needle size to match the material to be embroidered and the thread. If the needle eye is too big in relation to the thread size, skip stitches may occur.
Needle not set correctly into the machine Check position of needle. The needle must be fully inserted to the needle bar and must be threaded vertically from front to back (twelve o’clock position).
Threading path incorrect Check if correctly threaded and if a thread loop may have been caught somewhere
Unfavourable stitching direction on difficult base material First try and rotate pattern and base material by 90°. If necessary, change stitching direction of fill and satin stitches in digitizing program.
Hook setting incorrect Adjust hook (or have adjusted) so that the tip of the hook can safely take up the needle thread loop.
Material damages Needle (point) broken Replace needle
Wrong needle point used Select needle point according to material
Stitch density too high for material/too many stitches in the same place Reduce stitch density, work with shorter stitch lengths on inner radiuses, offset penetration points
Loops in the embroidery Thread tension too low Increase thread tension
Stitch length too long or too short In digitizing program, set maximum stitch length correctly (usually no more than 7 mm). Very short stitches require a high thread tension.
Unfavourable stitching direction (for example diagonally backwards) Reverse stitching direction, if necessary with additional underlay stitches
Problem Reason Suggested solution
Fabric shows puckering around the embroidery Embroidery hoop too big Use smallest possible embroidery hoop
Woven material not framed sufficiently Material and backing must be clamped tight like a drum
Knitted fabrics were stretched for fixing in the frame For knitted fabrics frame only the backing and then fix the material by using a temporary adhesive avoiding distortion
backing not tight enough Double thin backing or use heavier backing
Fabric puckers despite backing Bond backing and fabric with a temporary or permanent adhesive in order to reduce puckering
Thread tension too high Check needle thread and bobbin thread tension
Fabric is too dense Puckering due to displacement. Use smaller needle size and less stitches.
Unproper appearance of the embroidery Unfavourable stitching direction (for example diagonally backwards) Change stitching direction (either by different digitizing or by framing and embroidering the material offset by 90°).
Stitch length too long or too short Adjust minimum and maximum stitch length in digitizing program.
Stitch density and thread size do not match Select actually used thread size in digitizing program or adjust stitch density accordingly.
Underlay stitches missing or do not fulfil their purpose Check underlay stitches in digitizing program. Contour underlay stitching is recommended for letters while box-type underlay stitching is recommended for area embroideries. Note: false underlay stitching is worthless.
Stitches sink into the material (for example terry cloth, velour or velvet) Applying a water or heat soluble film to the top side prevents the stitches from sinking.
Thread tension balance incorrect Reset thread tension. In a row of satin stitches, the bobbin thread should cover 1/3 of the width of the stitch.
Contures not synchronized Too much stretching of material in embroidery hoop Improve framing method
Pull not considered in digitizing process Apply pull compensation in digitizing program
Hoop has loosened Tighten frame screw further, wrap frame with textile tape for more stability
Digitizing fault Check digitizing program on the computer (for example if the outline segment can be offset completely)