GENERAL EMBROIDERY FAQ
- Has the job of enabling sharp-contoured embroidery free from deformation due to pulling
- Gives the embroidery base the necessary dimensional stability in conjunction with the underlay stitching
- May be removed after the embroidery process by tearing, cutting away or dissolving
- For materials with a nap, the backing can be supported by a soluble film on the top of the embroidered item. The stitches are prevented from sinking into the nap by a water- or heat-soluble backing or a suitable film
- The following table is given as a guide for the application of different types of backing.
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- The DB x K5 needle system has established itself worldwide in machine embroidery. Virtually all machines use this system with the exception of the Fortron®
- The eye of the needle in the DB x K5 system is 1—2 needle sizes larger than usual. A size 70 needle therefore has the eye of a size 80 or 90 needle. The benefits are:
- a smaller diameter needle may be selected; it protects the material
- better protection for the embroidery thread as there is more room in the eye
- needle is easier to thread
- The needle size indicates the diameter of the part of the needle that penetrates the material, given in mm/100. A size 70 needle therefore has a diameter of 0,7 mm
- needle sizes of between 55 and about 120 may be used on conventional embroidery machines.
- The needle point is selected according to the embroidery application. The small ball point may be used as a starting point
- Real cutting points (SD or DH needle points) are avoided during machine embroidery to prevent perforation of the material
- The following table gives a guide for selecting points and sizes. Exceptions are possible
| Material | Needle size | Needle point | Needle brand | |||
| Knitwear: | Nm | Size | Groz-Beckert | Organ | Schmetz | |
| Knitwear | ||||||
| Knitwear & jersey | 65 — 80 | 9 — 12 | medium or small ball point | FFG / RG | J / Q | SES |
| Finely knitted fabric | 60 — 75 | 8 — 11 | medium or small ball point | FFG / RG | J / Q | SES |
| Woven fabric | ||||||
| Fabrics for shirts/blouses | 55 — 70 | 7 — 10 | sharp or small ball point | R / RG | R / Q | R |
| Denim | 70 — 110 | 10 — 18 | sharp or small ball point | R / RG | R / Q | R |
| Terry cloth | 65 — 90 | 9 — 14 | sharp or small ball point | R / RG | R / Q | R |
| Mircro-fibre | 60 — 90 | 8 — 14 | sharp or small ball point | R / RG | R / Q | R |
| Silk | 60 — 80 | 8 — 12 | sharp or small ball point | R / RG | R / Q | R |
| Leather goods | ||||||
| Leather | 70 — 110 | 10 — 18 | sharp ball point | R | R | R |
| Synthetic leather | 65 — 90 | 9 — 14 | sharp ball point | R | R | R |
| Coated materials | 65 — 100 | 9 — 16 | sharp or small ball point | R / RG | R / Q | R |
| Problem | Reason | Suggested solution |
| Thread breaks | Needle thread tension too high | Reset needle thread tension, 125 cN is considered as the highest standard value for general embroidery work |
| Wrong or incompletely threaded | Check thread path and correct if necessary | |
| Thread guiding elements have sharp edges or show burrs | Polish thread paths | |
| Hook shows burr (caused for example by hitting needle) | Polish hook | |
| Stitch density too high/too many stitch layers on top of each other | Change stitching program and digitize less densely | |
| Stitching speed too fast for large stitches | For especially long stitches reduce machine speed | |
| Insufficient thread quality | Use branded thread featuring a high tensile strength such as ISACORD | |
| Thread bulging in front of the needle | Needle size too small, eyelet too small | Use thicker needle, use DBxK5 system needle with a larger eye in order to keep the needle size as small as possible |
| Unfavourable stitching direction (for example satin stitch backwards) | Reverse stitching direction with underlay stitches if necessary | |
| Poor thread quality | Use branded thread featuring high tensile strength such as ISACORD | |
| Embroidery base material weaved or knitted very densely | If possible digitize longer stitches or use a thicker needle | |
| Skip stitches | Needle defective (bent) | Replace needle |
| Incorrect needle size | Select needle size to match the material to be embroidered and the thread. If the needle eye is too big in relation to the thread size, skip stitches may occur. | |
| Needle not set correctly into the machine | Check position of needle. The needle must be fully inserted to the needle bar and must be threaded vertically from front to back (twelve o’clock position). | |
| Threading path incorrect | Check if correctly threaded and if a thread loop may have been caught somewhere | |
| Unfavourable stitching direction on difficult base material | First try and rotate pattern and base material by 90°. If necessary, change stitching direction of fill and satin stitches in digitizing program. | |
| Hook setting incorrect | Adjust hook (or have adjusted) so that the tip of the hook can safely take up the needle thread loop. | |
| Material damages | Needle (point) broken | Replace needle |
| Wrong needle point used | Select needle point according to material | |
| Stitch density too high for material/too many stitches in the same place | Reduce stitch density, work with shorter stitch lengths on inner radiuses, offset penetration points | |
| Loops in the embroidery | Thread tension too low | Increase thread tension |
| Stitch length too long or too short | In digitizing program, set maximum stitch length correctly (usually no more than 7 mm). Very short stitches require a high thread tension. | |
| Unfavourable stitching direction (for example diagonally backwards) | Reverse stitching direction, if necessary with additional underlay stitches |
| Problem | Reason | Suggested solution |
| Fabric shows puckering around the embroidery | Embroidery hoop too big | Use smallest possible embroidery hoop |
| Woven material not framed sufficiently | Material and backing must be clamped tight like a drum | |
| Knitted fabrics were stretched for fixing in the frame | For knitted fabrics frame only the backing and then fix the material by using a temporary adhesive avoiding distortion | |
| backing not tight enough | Double thin backing or use heavier backing | |
| Fabric puckers despite backing | Bond backing and fabric with a temporary or permanent adhesive in order to reduce puckering | |
| Thread tension too high | Check needle thread and bobbin thread tension | |
| Fabric is too dense | Puckering due to displacement. Use smaller needle size and less stitches. | |
| Unproper appearance of the embroidery | Unfavourable stitching direction (for example diagonally backwards) | Change stitching direction (either by different digitizing or by framing and embroidering the material offset by 90°). |
| Stitch length too long or too short | Adjust minimum and maximum stitch length in digitizing program. | |
| Stitch density and thread size do not match | Select actually used thread size in digitizing program or adjust stitch density accordingly. | |
| Underlay stitches missing or do not fulfil their purpose | Check underlay stitches in digitizing program. Contour underlay stitching is recommended for letters while box-type underlay stitching is recommended for area embroideries. Note: false underlay stitching is worthless. | |
| Stitches sink into the material (for example terry cloth, velour or velvet) | Applying a water or heat soluble film to the top side prevents the stitches from sinking. | |
| Thread tension balance incorrect | Reset thread tension. In a row of satin stitches, the bobbin thread should cover 1/3 of the width of the stitch. | |
| Contures not synchronized | Too much stretching of material in embroidery hoop | Improve framing method |
| Pull not considered in digitizing process | Apply pull compensation in digitizing program | |
| Hoop has loosened | Tighten frame screw further, wrap frame with textile tape for more stability | |
| Digitizing fault | Check digitizing program on the computer (for example if the outline segment can be offset completely) |